Meet me at the Malecón: 13 MUST KNOWS before going to Cuba!
The Malecón (pictured above) is Cuba’s most famous sea-side avenue which runs 8 km-long. It is a long favored meeting place and a nighttime promenade.
Ever since childhood, the thought of Cuba—this Caribbean island trapped in time has both perplexed and fascinated me. Perhaps it was because Americans weren’t allowed to go there, or that no one I’d known had ever been there. Regardless, the moment I found out the 56-year old trade embargo and travel ban had been lifted, I had to experience it for myself. I booked a direct flight from Newark, NJ, and left three weeks later.
I have never visited a place where the people were so friendly and genuinely happy. Walking around in the beautiful ruins they call home, I felt as if I was on a movie set. The country remains in a 1960’s time capsule. Classic cars motor by, music can be heard on almost every street, and people sing and dance along the famous Malecón while the sun sets on the Caribbean horizon. The people here live simply—owning very little in terms of material possessions—with the government providing them with rations of the essentials. There is a childlike excitement and an innocence that I’ve never seen anywhere else. The locals are excited to welcome American tourists, to show us their culture, and excited for a new opportunity to make money.
Of all of the countries I’ve experienced, Cuba will forever hold a piece of my heart. Here are 13 things you need to know before going…
1. “Support for the Cuban people”
There are “12 Categories of Travel” under which Americans can enter Cuba. "Support for the Cuban people" is the category under which I and many of my friends visited. I qualified by staying in local AirBnB's. Click here to see the 12 travel categories
Book your accommodations ahead of time and PRINT OUT COPIES of each booking, because if you are questioned by authorities (unlikely, but possible), having your itinerary in hand is your proof of fitting under the 12 regulations. Your reservation printouts will also become your “bible” later on when trying to navigate around town or use a taxi. Cuba is a massive island and Havana has so many crumbling buildings that residences are often very hard to find, with some addresses being almost unidentifiable.
FYI, I was never questioned as to why I was going to Cuba, nor were any of my friends who've gone after me.
2. AirBnb
I booked and stayed in 3 different Airbnb’s while in Cuba since I was looking for a more authentic visit. I stayed with locals, ate their home-cooked meals, and was able to see how they really live. Although my conversational Spanish is limited, I found the entire cultural exchange to be humbling.
NOTE: Cuban hotels are government owned, so if you’d like your money to go to the Cuban people rather than the government, Airbnb’s are a better option.
Here’s where I stayed in Havana:
La Habana
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/17135416
Hostal CH- Luxury Hostal in the Old Havana
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/15290215
Here’s where I stayed in Viñales:
Villa Emilio Cesar
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/16202652
3. VISA & Health Insurance:
Near your U.S airport departure gate you’ll see signs, "Traveling to Cuba?", “go here”. At both Newark Liberty and JKF there's an additional check-in line which you must go through before security, in which you will obtain your Cuban visa and purchase Cuban health insurance. Yes, they are both required for travel. The combined cost is $75 USD.
4. Plan your Route
Cab #1 on our trek to Viñales. Yep, that’s gum behind the driver’s ear.
While Havana is the “MUST SEE” capital city and heart of Cuba, you need to experience the countryside in places such as Viñales and/or Trinidad. Traveling to these regions takes considerable time; you must take a bus or rely on local cabs for transportation. Plan ahead and visit such locales early in your trip because the modes of transportation in Cuba are very old and unreliable. During my travels, I saw several broken down along the roadside. Unlike most Americans, Cuban’s lack a sense of urgency, and traveling within the country can be more difficult and time consuming than you may imagine.
My dear friend Amanda snapped this candid of me in Viñales, right before we hiked up the hill to watch the sun set over the valley.
After over an hour of negotiating for a taxi, 4 travelers and I departed Havana by cramming into a vintage car (which expelled clouds of black smoke) and traveled several hours to Viñales. If you’re looking for a laid-back environment with rolling hills, fields of crops, tours of tobacco farms, and horseback riding, spend time here. Viñales’ beautiful countryside was a highlight of my trip.
5. PREPARE TO BE OFF THE GRID, because you will be.
Mojito in one hand and camera in the other, I snapped this shot from the rooftop of my first AirBnb in Havana. The rawness of this view took my breath away.
As of now, Cuba is not an affiliate banking customer of the USA. Use of credit cards or ATM’s are NOT an option. USD are not accepted.
Don’t plan on having internet access, because it’s likely you won’t unless you’re staying in a government owned hotel. Few private residences have wifi. You can purchase wifi cards which can be used in a few local parks or restaurants, but even then the wifi is very spotty and unreliable (think dial-up internet). I didn’t use the internet at all for the week I was there, and it was actually a very refreshing situation since I was forced to be more “present” in my surroundings. It also made me realize how cut off the locals are from the rest of the world.
Download maps.me app before you arrive for access to an offline map of Havana
6. MONEY & BUDGETING
There are two types of Cuban currency: Convertible Pesos or CUC (primary) and Cuban pesos CUP. CUP is the “local” currency used between the Cuban people which you will likely never see or touch unless you’re buying something handmade off of the street. Trying to understand the currencies is difficult, and depending on where you are prices can be listed in either one or the other currency.
I recommend traveling with the equivalent of $100 USD a day, and set aside an extra hundred in case of emergencies (or for a later purchase of cigars). Prior to leaving the USA, exchange your USD for either Canadian dollars or Euros. Once you land in the Havana airport, you can then exchange that money for CUC (their main currency). Some places in Cuba accept CAD and Euros, but it’s always better to have local currency.
As my week progressed and my cash dwindled, panic set in. I realized I didn’t bring enough money to Cuba. My travel-mate and I scraped together loose American change and waited an hour in a Cuban bank to exchange it for CUC. They took a 6% commission, but we were left with just enough to finish our trip. DON’T MAKE THE MISTAKE WE DID!
7. PRACTICE YOUR españoL!
If you don’t speak or understand Spanish, try to find and then cling to someone who does. You will need to know some basics in order to communicate since almost no locals speak English. Thankfully, my friend and I met a Spanish speaking expat on night 1 who was able to communicate and translate for us, and he ended up accompanying us for part of our trip (to Viñales). Because of him we were able to maximize our time. We wouldn’t have gotten very far without him.
8. ENTREPRENEURSHIP
While Cuba is still under Communist rule, the belt straps are beginning to loosen as evidenced by the construction filled streets and in the eagerness of the people to make money. Locals are allowed to trade and barter, and they will do almost anything to make a dollar—with a percentage of that income still being collected by the government. Average Cubans are excited to have you in their country and want to show you around—often at a cost. Be mindful of this. If you have some smaller value currency and you’ve accepted help from a local, tip him/her. If they try to persuade you to visit a particular bar or restaurant, they’re likely profiting slightly from it. Cubans are grateful for every additional cent they can earn.
FACT: The average Cuban salary is $23 a month.
9. DINING OUT
Often times what's printed on the menu isn't actually available. Restaurants quickly run out of meat(s), as increased tourism has placed a strain on the island’s limited resources.
Consider avoiding uncooked veggies and proceed as if Cuba is a third world country: don't drink the water, try not to consume ice, avoid touching your mouth to drink ware, drink liquids that come from bottles! Unless you have an iron stomach, you’re likely feel a little “off” while in Cuba. Do NOT travel without IMODIUM in your carry on. All of my travel-mates and I returned to the USA weighing a bit less. When you see bottled water for sale, BUY IT. While in transit it’s often difficult to find.
10. TOILETS: The hover is necessary
Many toilets in Cuba don't have toilet seats, and many places require payment for using them. As in many Asian countries, flushing toilet paper is prohibited because you’ll clog the pipes and overflow the toilets. Bring packs of tissues for bathroom use and carry antibacterial gel with you as there's rarely any soap available!
**Bring all toiletries you'll need over there since there are no real convenient stores or "bodegas". Essentials are rationed by the government. Leave behind any/all extra items you don't need (including clothing). Your host will thank you!!
11. THROW LOGIC OUT THE WINDOW
Never expect to receive a straight answer to a question and throw American logic out the window. For example, I asked my last AirBnb host to arrange a taxi to the airport. 15 minutes after the scheduled pickup time, my host said, “maybe he’s not working today”. We ended up asking a local to take us to the airport, and paid him all of our remaining CUC. Adhere to your American roots and be persistent. And if you’re from NYC...well... you will need to exercise extreme patience.
12. COHIBAS
Pictured above: Myself and my beautiful friend Amanda buying Cohibas in a family’s compound.
“Cuba” and “Cohiba cigars” are synonymous, and you can’t visit without indulging. Be aware that most Cohibas being sold off the street are fake. Since I often find myself in random situations, it’s not surprising that I happened to “meet a guy who knew a guy” and find myself inside the family home of an actual Cohiba factory worker. Once inside this family’s home we were greeted with a table filled with Cohiba’s in all varieties and sizes, and were walked through the whole rolling process. The man explained about the different authentic seals from the wooden container box and the ribbon in which the cigars are wrapped. After deliberation and slight haggling, my friend and I chose our boxes and they were then properly sealed with the official sticker.
The Cuban government allows each worker to take home 2 boxes of Cohibas to share with family each month. Often times the workers will sell those boxes at 1/2 price to tourists, with all proceeds going to their family instead of the government. As we stood inside the worker’s home, rain was trickling down through the 30 foot ceilings into buckets which were strategically placed all over the cement and tiled floors. For us, it was a no brainer that we would purchase our cigars here instead of waiting until we visited the factory.
The famous genuine Cuban Cohibas we purchased averaged 6-7 USD per cigar. Do the math and keep that in mind should you also meet someone legit who is selling them. Also, know that it is legal to bring them home to the U.S.
Cohibas - like all cigars - will dry out and go bad quickly unless stored at proper temperature and humidity. Be mindful of this and store them properly or, as I did, give them away quickly.
13. CARRY IT ALL ON
Or more specifically, carry on. Don’t check your bag to Cuba unless you’d like to waste several hours waiting to retrieve it or are willing to lose it all. Think island time x100. Play it safe: carry it on so you can carry it back off and begin your holiday.
Cuba Part II COMING SOON!
